Joseph Olanyo

The smell of smoked fish greets you from one of the small nucleated huts along Lutoboka landing site in Ssese Islands.

As night falls, the beaches are illuminated with lamps and candles. You would think it is a candle lit dinner. It is not. It is the catch of silver fish, locally known as mukene.
 
The tiny fish known for its irresistible smell, but with a potential market in neighbouring Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC) is one of the potential cargoes transported by Motor Vessel (MV) Kalangala, the ship that plies the islands of Lake Victoria.

Before it attained a district status, Kalangala town in Bugala Island, was just a landing site where small motor boats and oar driven boats used to dock. The few passengers who commute within the neighbouring islands were the order of the day.

When MV Barbus, the Ugandan ship that operated between the mainland and Lake Victoria islands stopped operations in the early 1990's, transportation and trade in the area almost ground to a halt.

Not only was transport and trade affected, but also tourism, one of Uganda's biggest foreign income earners. The only ferry, Bukakata ferry, in Masaka, a south western town of Uganda, was also unreliable. If it was not a mechanical problem, it was lack of fuel.

This further deepened the uncertainty of travelling to the islands.

"Transport to the islands had become a nightmare. It was difficult and some of us had given up with the islands because it was no longer cost effective to do business," a business man dealing in silver fish said.

But Kalangala has changed a lot. The coming in of the oil palm project by Bidco Uganda Ltd has changed the face of the once impenetrable islands. The infrastructure like roads that Bidco developed has eased transport on the mainland.

The sprawling Bidco's headquarters in Bwendero, palm oil mill and staff quarters have brought a big change to Bugala island.

In February 2006, the Uganda Government had to commence operations of the MV Kalangala, a large vessel constructed at Port Bell, Uganda's biggest port on Lake Victoria. Today, tourists, business people and students travel to the islands with the help of the ship.
 
"I feel great. It's cool and exciting to be here," said Mr John Hans, a tourist from Belgium who was walking along the sandy beaches with his girlfriend Joan.

Hans is among tourists who take their time of to see what happens in Africa.

Kalangala is a tourist destination. The 84 lush equatorial Ssese Islands form worlds of their own. Forests teeming with wildlife, sandy beaches, friendly islanders and peaceful environment provide a unique and fascinating opportunity for fishing, walking, boating, bird watching or simply enjoying beautiful, unusual and unspoilt surroundings.

Here, you'll be able to see Velvet Monkeys and Grey Parrots by the forest waterfalls, Kingfishers, Herons and Fish Eagles diving for their food in the lake.

Initially, a steamer trip from Port Bell, to the islands was nine hours long. Today, it takes you only three hours. The ship's pilot Capt Lawrence Kilunda, from Tanzania, says he has never had any mechanical problems while in the waters.

"It's great piloting to the islands. I interact with so many passengers, local and foreign and all they tell me is that they enjoy traveling by ship," Kilunda said.

Beach hotels that lie along the sandy lake shores and small lodges dotted within the small but upcoming town, provide accommodation and entertainment to visitors. Even without hydro electricity, Kalangala a happening place. Its .nightlife is thrilling.

At Ssese Habitat beach, a disco theque brings the islanders and visitors together.

Here, revelers gyrate all night long to the tunes of local and foreign artists. One tall lanky man in his late 30s, who was apparently taken up with Oliva Ngoma's new release (Kusuk), could be seen throwing his elbows sideways, forward and backwards while murmuring some words like somebody possessed by an evil spirit.

All you need at the disco theque is to buy drinks and the whole night is yours.   

Kalangala is home of fauna and flora. Many of the 84 islands are uninhabited except for a few fishermen, so the forests and swamps form some of the perfect habitat for birds.

The virtually virgin land is rich in plant life, and many, of the species are reportedly new to botanists It is easy to spot the whale-headed Stork and the many herons and geese, but more exclusive birds include the Grey Parrot, kingfishers and Fish Eagles.
 
MV Kalangala with a capacity of 108 passengers, 8 cars and 100 tonnes of cargo, operates daily from Nakiwogo landing site near Uganda's international airport city of Entebbe. It leaves Entebbe at 2pm prompt arriving at Lutoboka landing site in Kalangala district at about 5pm. The return journey from the islands starts at 8am in the morning arriving Entebbe at 11am.

Transportation costs to Kalangala for a single journey per passenger is Ushs10.000 ($5) per person second class or Ushs14.000 ($7) for first class.

Vehicle transport is determined by the vehicle length. Rates are between Ushs50.000 ($25) and Ushs60.000 ($30) one way.

Drinks and snacks are sold on board the vessel and obviously from hawkers at each of the landing sites.

With MV Kalangala, the storm seems to be over for the islanders, and it is business as usual again.